Our plan from Mayreau was to go to Tobago Cays, but the winds were too strong, so we decided to go over to Canouan. Little did we know, that we’d be transported into a different dimension. We did that by motoring our little yacht directly into 19-22 knot winds through a whirlpool of seas. The current was going two different directions, so it made for a one-hour sporty ride.
As we approached Canouan, a gentleman from Sandy Lane Yacht Club greeted us as we were getting our fenders and lines ready to dock in the marina. Sandy Lane is designed for big yachts, and I mean BIG superyachts. Built by Irish billionaire Dermot Desmond, it has 120 slips and 12 berths capable of accommodating superyachts up to 100 meters.
When we arrived on January 24th, there was hardly anyone there. We had the place to ourselves except for 7 other mono-hulls and catamarans.
After helping us tie up to the dock, our greeter, Davidson said, “Welcome to Sandy Lane…we have the best showers in the Caribbean!” And they did
This place looks like a European marina with villas lining the dock and the cliffs. It has a little grocery store named Faye’s that was clearly designed for superyacht chefs. We struggle finding everything we want, especially vegetables like broccoli and spinach. They had many greens and healthy meats. I was overjoyed, until I looked at the prices. A tub of plain Greek yogurt was $20 US. Joe’s favorite crackers that we could get in St. Martin for $4 US were $10US. We bought a couple of our favorite things, but it wasn’t the healthy shopping spree I had hoped for.
On the other hand, their bakery was reasonable priced and delicious. We enjoyed hot croissants in the morning and even put in an order for hot freshly baked bread that we picked up from baker, Fern before we left.
During our time there, a couple of yachts came in, one of them a superyacht, complete with the crew that sounded like they were from “Below Deck” as they hung out at the pool. We don’t think they make up those lines on that reality TV show.
We hit the dinner restaurant once and then hung at the “beach bar” named Scruffy’s. We’ve been in a lot of beach bars during this adventure and this one had clean bathrooms with the toilet paper folded in a triangle. No kidding.
We walked around the entire property one morning and their desalinization water tanks are made out of red brick. We can tell you there is no red brick on any of these islands. That was shipped in.
As wonderful as their showers were, we left after a few days to the most amazing Tobago Cays, only 10 nm from Canouan. Again, transported to yet another dimension.
Our greater Free Willie, who we met in July, showed us to a safe mooring with a view of Horseshoe Reef and quick access to the turtle sanctuary. We got so used to seeing turtles that they were like our pets. Willie and his cook, Beth treated us to a yummy BBQ our first night and we were joined by another couple we’d met briefly in Grenada last summer.
Speaking of last summer. There was no one at Tobago Cays when we were there in July. This time it was like we had arrived into Ft. Lauderdale during Spring Break. We luckily booked a reservation for the only dive shop allowed to lead divers around Tobago Cays. We dove off of Horseshoe Reef which was incredible. Then they took us to Mayreau Gardens, which was a very fast drift dive. We weren’t quite ready for that "carnival" ride, but the coral and fish were spectacular.
After Tobago Cays, we were back to Charlestown, Canouan, yet a very different dimension in the Grenadines. We were met by local greeter, John who made sure we got a safe mooring, and even connected us with Gazimo who rented us a mule (golf cart) to drive around the island. During our day out, we were told by a guard at the gate that the north part of the island is owned by an Italian billionaire and the only way we could get onto the grounds was to pay $500 us per person at the hotel or restaurant. It’s a long story, so if you’re interested, here’s the link.
Along the way we met a captain of one of the superyachts, which is as close as we’re ever going to get to one. He told us the demands of his boss who he’d worked for for 10 years. This captain was out scouting for a white sand beach, with palm trees, and no one on it or near it. And he didn’t want it to be part of a resort. He was flying in a steel drum band for a party. Oh – and it couldn’t be too windy.
After our encounter with the guards up north and this engaging captain, we were able to get to the rest of the island and a few beaches before returning to Larry.
Larry was the lobster we purchased before our golf cart outing. We put him in a large bucket in sea water, but he “fell asleep” by the time we returned. We know you’re supposed to boil them while they’re alive, but I was kind of glad he went on his own. He was delicious and we thanked him for giving his life for our dinner.
For cruisers, I want to give a big shout out to:
Free Willie in Tobago Cays – you can hail him on Channel 16
John in Charlestown helped us with our mooring and anything else we needed. WhatsApp +17845930875
The SOHO Hotel and Beach Club for having a delicious kale salad
Gazimo in Charlestown who had a “mule” that worked
Photo up top is the one and only Free Willie from Tobago Cays.
Lonely in Sandy Lane - Canouan, but right next to the fabulous showers.
New neighbors in Sandy Lane. Our catamaran (itty bitty yacht) is right in the center of the photo. You'll need to have readers on to see it.
The villas at Sandy Lane. "Build it and they might come." Eventually. There was no one around.
The view off our bow at Tobago Cays.
Petit Tabac off of starboard. We call this the Microsoft screen saver island.
We love our Peddleboard as it goes far and fast and you can't fall off of it. Most of the time.
Getting ready to dive. That was my base layer. I wear a wet suit on top of my vest. Layering - like when I snow ski.
Larry, our first lobster on board Chez Making Connections. We was "asleep."
The chef on Making Connections.
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