High Winds

After two weeks in the Simpson Bay lagoon getting installation and repairs done to the water maker, we were ready to weigh anchor and set out on the French side of Saint Martin. Checking in was fairly easy. We took the dinghy to a marine hardware store and used a computer terminal they had set up in the store. A clerk looked at our passports and stamped our form and we were officially checked in. No surly customs agent or immigration official. Actually a pretty slick system. The biggest surprise is we didn’t have to pay anything.

The Caribbean is well known for its Christmas winds. They are called that because they start in early December and go through the middle of January. The typical winds are 12-16 knots from the east or southeast. Well sure enough, the Christmas winds had arrived. It had been blowing at a steady 20-25 knots, but we were pretty protected in the lagoon. It was a tricky decision to decide to leave, but we needed a change of scenery. The winds predicted for our journey to the French side were steady 25 knots, from the east, gusting to 28 knots.

We had planned to go to Pinel Island off the coast of Saint Martin. Looking at the wind forecast we decided that was a little too far in those conditions. We decided to try a bay called Anse Marcel, which we knew was pretty protected. Our route was to head out of the lagoon and go north on the west coast of the island. We would have to turn east to get to Anse Marcel, directly into the wind.

The trip started out great. It was very calm as we were somewhat protected on the west side and running a little downwind. Once we turned east it all changed. Big seas and big winds as we beat directly east. We were averaging about 4 knots into the wind with the engines on. Sea spray was coming over the boat into the helm. It was a bumpy ride. The trip was only 13 miles.

In retrospect our decision to make our trip to Saint Martin from BVI on the day before Thanksgiving was a very good one. I could not imagine going through those conditions for 93 miles. What amazes me is the pounding the boat can take going into the waves. Got to hand it to Fountaine Pajot for a great job of boat architecture and engineering.

We passed Grande Case as we made our way to Anse Marcel. I was thinking of just stopping there, as we both love Grande Case. Some of the best restaurants we have been in. It wasn’t much further to Anse Marcel and we pressed on. When we arrived the anchorage seemed crowded and “rolly”. We anchored, but didn’t stay long. Grande Case was calling us back. The trip back to Grande Case was easy as it was directly downwind. Instead of pounding into the waves, we surfed them.

We spent six days in Grande Case visiting our favorite restaurants. We have stayed at the Grande Case Beach Club Hotel, which was completely wiped out by Irma and rebuilt. They have a great beach and a great restaurant.

Grande Case has a small regional airport in town. One of the things we learned is you can’t anchor the path of the runway. There was nothing on the charts or guide books about not anchoring and there were other boats anchored near us. There were yellow makers designating the no-anchor spot, but we didn’t see an explanation on any chart of guide book.

It was about 4 in the afternoon and we were sitting on the deck of the restaurant Ocean 82, which had a direct line of sight to our boat. We were hoping to get their Wi-Fi signal and password, since our boat was so close. We had just ordered when a Gendarmerie boat pulled up to our boat. We had no idea why. Margie ran down to the dock to signal to them. They came over and told her we were not supposed to be anchored where we were and we would have to pay a 68 Euro fine.

Margie tried to explain that we did not know we couldn’t anchor there and that we were sorry. I equate her attempt to talk the Gendarmerie out of the fine like trying to talk your way out of a speeding ticket on the frontage road between Georgetown and Idaho Springs. No luck.

We went back to our boat and only had 50 Euros on hand. Well, the French don’t take dollars. Into the dinghy we went to get dollars exchanged into Euros. The Gendarmerie just waited tied up to our boat. Margie quickly ran up to a bar that was close to the dinghy dock to exchange Dollars for Euros. She did manage to get 50 Euros in exchange in the bar. Back to our boat. I handed the Gendarme the 100 Euros and he proceeded to tell me the fine was 68 and he was not a bank and didn’t have change. Back on the dinghy to try and get exact change. As I pulled away one of them shouted “68 Euros!” with a smirk on his face. The Gendarmes waited again for us to get change. I think they were enjoying seeing us go back and forth. Finally, the fine was paid and the boat was moved. We needed a drink.

It was time to head back to Simpson Bay on the Dutch side to meet the boys for Christmas. Tyler came in yesterday and Wesley and Piper just landed! We are so excited to be with them and show them our new skills.

Merry Christmas Everyone!

Margie took this photo of the Gendarmerie approaching our catamaran; not to put it on a blog, but to see what it said on the side of the boat. We gave those two great entertainment on a Friday afternoon.